Sunrise has not yet come, and it’s 4.59am, 3rd February 2025, on the last great bathing day of the Prayag Maha Kumbh Mela in North India.
I’m watching hundreds of naked, ash-clad, marigold necklace-wearing highly vital men, some of whom are shaking their weapons. Then the holy war cries of ‘Har Har Mahadev’ sound from their throats and they march forward but as individuals, not in military rhythmic step: this is a different kind of army. These men are naga sadhus, a warrior form of monastic order…
Maha Kumbh Mela